Auto Insurance

Full Coverage vs. Liability Only: How to Make the Right Call for Your Car

May 9, 2026  ·  6 min read  ·  Auto Insurance

The most common advice floating around about auto insurance coverage is the "$20,000 rule" — if your car is worth less than $20,000, drop to liability only. That advice is outdated, oversimplified, and has cost a lot of drivers money. Here is a clearer framework for making this decision.

What each coverage type actually does

Before comparing costs, it helps to understand what you are and are not buying.

Liability coverage pays for damage and injuries you cause to other people in an accident. It covers their car repairs, their medical bills, and their lost wages. It does not pay a cent toward your own vehicle.

Collision coverage pays to repair or replace your car after an accident, regardless of who caused it. If you hit a guardrail at 2am, collision pays. If someone rear-ends you and drives off, collision pays.

Comprehensive coverage covers everything that is not a collision: theft, hail, flooding, fire, hitting a deer, a tree falling on your car. It tends to be inexpensive because most of these events are relatively rare.

Full coverage is not an official term. It typically means liability plus collision plus comprehensive. When people say they have "full coverage," this is what they mean.

The math that should drive your decision

The correct question is not "is my car worth more than $20,000?" It is this: does the annual cost of collision and comprehensive coverage exceed 10% of your car's actual cash value?

Here is what that looks like in practice:

Car value10% thresholdAvg. annual coll + comp costVerdict
$6,000$600/yr$900 to $1,200/yrConsider dropping
$12,000$1,200/yr$900 to $1,200/yrBorderline
$22,000$2,200/yr$900 to $1,400/yrKeep full coverage

When you have no choice

If your car is financed or leased, your lender requires full coverage. This is non-negotiable and written into your loan agreement. Dropping to liability while still making payments is a contract violation that can result in the lender buying a forced-place policy on your behalf at three times the normal rate.

Once your car is paid off, you have the freedom to choose. That is when the math above becomes relevant.

The middle option most people overlook

You do not have to choose between full coverage and liability only as if they are the only two options. A smart middle ground: drop collision but keep comprehensive.

Comprehensive coverage is cheap, usually $100 to $200 per year, and it covers the risks that feel most random and devastating: a car theft, a hailstorm turning your hood into a putting green, a deer appearing from nowhere. Collision is the expensive part. If your car is older and not worth much, dropping collision while keeping comprehensive gets you meaningful protection at a fraction of the cost.

The deductible trap

When people complain that "insurance never pays out," they usually mean their claim did not exceed their deductible. A $1,000 deductible on collision means the first $1,000 of any repair comes out of your pocket. Before choosing a high deductible to lower your premium, ask yourself honestly whether you could write that check tomorrow morning without financial strain.

A reasonable framework: set your deductible at the highest amount you could genuinely afford to pay out of pocket in a bad month, not the highest amount that exists.

The bottom line

The right answer depends on three things: what your car is worth, whether it is financed, and how much financial risk you can absorb. Run the 10% math. Check your loan documents. Consider the comprehensive-only middle ground. Then make the call based on numbers rather than rules of thumb that were invented when cars cost half what they cost today.

Use our premium calculator to see exactly how coverage level affects your monthly cost.

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